Idler Gear - Setting End Float

A fairly crucial part of how the idler gear operates is its tolerances and running clearances. part numbers: 22A1545, 22A1546, 22A1547, 22A1548, 22A1549, DAM4822, DAM4823, DAM4824, DAM4825, GUG705563GM, AAU8424, ADU6033, CCN110, 2A3643, 22A152, 53K547, Terminology: DTI - Dial Test Indicator End float is a continual problem as folk either ignore it through ignorance or lack of accessible information on how to do it, or belief special tools are needed. Also, later factory assembled engine units (from about 1992 onwards) were built up using whatever shims and thrust washers were available, since Rover were not making regular orders for all shim/washer sizes due to the forthcoming end of production. Consequently, many units left Rover with incorrect (usually too big) clearances. The idler gear was no exception. Too tight a clearance and the idler gear will either seize solid when it gets hot, or destroy the thrust washer thrust faces in the comparably soft aluminium gearbox and t

Engine - 1098, Initial Tuning

The 1098 (1100) engine has had a lot of bad press over the years - largely because of early experiences when trying to tune the motor brought about problems with the then standard components available - they simply were not up to taking any real punishment as experienced in racing.

See bottom for useful part numbers.

This fallacy was handed down generation to generation like some scary bedtime story. Those that have used the unit in more recent years, employing more capable componentry know what a demon motor this can be. Following is an initial look at what it will do with a little modification - the results compared directly with it's smaller brother the 998 for illustration of the potential.

Abridged History
When the Mini was first conceived it ustilised a de-stroked version of the then quite remarkable 948cc A-series engine.

Engine transplants - gearbox information

A subject worthy of an entire book to explain the whys and wherefores, and also causes much consternation on the part of the transplanter. Terminology - BBU - Big Bore Unit SBU - Small Bore Unit FD - Final Drive (diff ratio) A subject worthy of an entire book to explain the whys and wherefores, and also causes much consternation on the part of the transplanter. Much confusion’s spread over which gearbox has the best ratios, is best to use, and with which FD. For a detailed account on this and covering all gearboxes fitted as standard to the Mini, see the relevant separate articles 'Gearbox - Standard production gearbox types'. Fortunately, when selecting a complete engine and gearbox unit from a Metro, the gearbox will pretty much suit the engine and be easily transplantable whole into the Mini. It shares exactly the same rod-change linkage as the Mini. Difficulties only arise when fitting a rod-change gearbox into a pre-1973 Mini that has the old remote-type gear-change mechan

Lubrication - Temperature critical

The correct running temperature of the oil is perhaps even more important than the water/coolant temperatures - so let us consider how to control them.

Mainly because it seems to be the most misunderstood of the whole process, and oil cooler fitment almost a reflex when over-heating occurs where a tuned engine of any type is concerned. And in many cases on standard production road cars for that matter.

Almost since the appearance of the immortal Cooper S, fitting an oil cooler has been the essential thing to do to any tuned Mini without any comprehension why. The original fitment was necessary because oil and bearing technology wasn't too advanced. Asking an oil of yester-year to cope with lubricating an engine at racing speeds, and a gearbox pushed their performance to the edge of their all too narrow capability, so extreme control over their working environment was essential for reliability. Hence oil cooler fitment.

Wheels & tyres - Problems with 12-inch wheels rubbing

Having applied Hi-Los and some smart 165/60/12 profile tyre shod12 x 5-inch ally rims, discussions get around to a subject that has cropped up a zillion times in the Knowledge, at shows, my e-mail address, etc. - just why does this combination cause the tyre to hit the front arch?

To be more exact - why does the tyre just rub, twang the plastic arch off, or foul the arch to the point of bending it? Even if the genuine, original fitment 'Cooper' alloy 12-inch rims are used with the 165/60/12 tyres? Well, it's all a question of alignment - either subframe to body or suspension to subframe. When trying to source/cure the problem, many folk have discovered that shim plates have been used between the front panel to subframe teardrop mounting and the subframe - and wonder if the car has been in an accident and been 'fudged', so could be causing the problem.

C-AJJ4006 ADJUSTABLE FRONT RACE ANTI-ROLL BAR

Instruction Sheet (Please read in full before installing anti-roll bar)

The mounting blocks are to be fixed at each end of the bar under the front of the subframe where there is a double thickness of metal close to the forward tie-bar brackets. Loosely assemble the blocks to the bar, one positioned between the locating rings - offer the bar up to the lower front edge of the front subframe.

16.07.07 - Silverstone Report by Keith Calver

After a monumentally busy start to the year work-wise, I made a concerted effort to get the car sorted to get back out there and have some fun. My plans for stripping the car back to the shell and re-checking all the suspension alignment starting from the shell and subframes went to hell in a hand cart, so it was a case of building an engine and doing my best to re-sort the suspension geometry to try and suss this weird and inconsistent handling ....

5 SPEED GEARBOX DISMANTLING SHEET

Your 5 speed gearbox has a special 5th gear, laygear, and reverse idler shaft assembled with a modified gearbox main case and a different speedo end casting.

These parts must be removed before the main gearbox cluster can be removed. When a clean work area has been prepared, the removal of the 5th gear and laygear is as follows.

1. Remove the new speedo end casting assembly with the two bearings. These are a slide fit in the casting and are not positively retained.

2. Remove taper bearing No LM11749 off the 5th gear shaft along with the needle roller bearing carrier from the bore of the 5th gear, leaving the gear loose on the shaft.

3. Remove diff and housing as per workshop manual, turn the selector rod at base of diff housing area anti clockwise-and with the spool pull out as far as possible...

Monitoring Radiators development since 1960.

Monitoring Radiators development since 1960.

I have been monitoring radiators and their development since the late 1960’s because they were and still can be a problem when tuning cars.
I have seen, tried and tested everything made available or offered to Mini Spares

Historical Article - March 1992 - Wild Thing!

In 1988, a humble 1973 Mini 1000 was minding its own business somewhere in London, when along came a young Mini freak called Jason King, who wanted to change it for ever, and make it famous.

Jason persuaded the owner to take £450 for the car, and then proceeded to throw £12,000 worth of presents at it for the next 3 years. Every minute of Jason’s spare time was spent working on his new car and every minute of his working time was spent looking for spares.

Historical Article - May 1993 - EFI - The Continuing Saga

EFl - THE CONTINUING SAGA It is some time since I reported on the electronic fuel injection and ignition system I have been developing for Mini Spares. Unfortunately I suffered a very stagnant period of too many months whilst a great deal of time was wasted by what I can only describe as the "holier than thou's" in the automotive electronics world. What a bunch of self-opinionated *ssh*l*s!! Far too many empty promises.